this has been bouncing around the internet - its not mine and i dont know whos it is.. if someone can attribute the author i would be happy :)
i was freezing friday morning.. its a cold winter in israel.. one of the colder ones.. i went in for a surf and spent an hour facing waves that were out of my league.. suddenly a open cutie came along and i took the drop onto the open shoulder.. i decided to tuck in rather than rip and if the winds were different (ie in another universe) it may have barrelled.. but instead i just enjoyed the sensation as i careful edged up its face and over to behind the break before it crashed heavily..
remember to exit your comfort zone..
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